The Reel

The reel can be the big stumbling block. Here is the best advice for every beginner: ignore all of the reels you see that are expensive. What you want is called a closed-face push-button spincasting reel. There are several available in the $10 to $20 price range that are the best choices of all reels to learn fishing.
These are not the choice of most experienced anglers, and they will be likely to tell you to buy the reel design that they use. Just smile and say, "That's what I'll get next." There is way too much to learn first, and if you buy the push-button reel, you will spend your time learning to fish — not learning how to use a fancy reel.
However, the very least expensive push-button spincast reels are to be avoided. These often are sold with an accompanying cartoon character or otherwise are made to appeal to children. This is ironic, since they usually don't work well and could create a potentially life-long aversion to fishing for the child who experiences the sad disappointment of being unable to fish because the line won't come out of the reel. A rule of thumb is simply, the more you pay for these reels, the more likely they are to have sensible design. Among the least expensive reels that work well are the Shakespeare Synergy Steel 10 or Titanium (Ti) 10 series. These start at around $10 at discount stores. Most of the spincasting reels over $20 are "heavy duty" reels, designed for holding 12 to 14 pound line, and for first-timers, that line is too thick.

Fishing Line — Less is Much More

The one “dangerous” bit of advice here is to replace the line from the reel you buy, because it’s almost always eight or 10 pound line. (If this is all too complicated, skip this step! You can still catch fish with the original line.)
“Pound” refers to the strength of the line – it would hold that amount of weight without breaking. That is, you could suspend an eight pound weight tied to a segment of eight pound line, but adding another pound would make it break.
The natural inclination would be to use stronger line rather than weaker line, but in fact, the weaker line often brings much, much better results. The reason is simple: six-pound line is thinner and harder for the fish to see than eight-pound line, and four pound line is even harder for the fish to detect.
Imagine dropping a worm in the water and watching it slowly sink toward fish. The fish will dart after it, and it will quickly disappear into their hungry mouths. However, put that worm on a hook, with heavy 10-pound fishing line, and the fish may well simply swim up and then swim away, or bite very cautiously, and avoid the hook.
If your first fishing trip involves small fish, and they usually do, then you will want your reel filled with four-pound line. (If the fish are plentiful and large, that is, over a foot long, then you will probably do fine with eight pound line, and if the fish are running quite large, over two pounds, then eight or even 10-pound line will probably work best. Fish over two pounds can break four pound line.)
A likely reaction: “Hey, I want line strong enough for big fish!” That’s the reason that heavy line is there. Response: first of all, for kids, ANY fish is big. A five-inch perch is a thrilling first time trophy. For adult first-timers, just catch something. There ‘s much to learn catching small fish. And you’d surprised how much fun it is catching six-and eight-inch fish. The lighter line easily may make all the difference between a fun outing and a fishless foray.

Any brand of line will do well, and there’s no reason to buy the fancy expensive lines. You should be able to get a couple hundred yards of four or six pound line for $5. By the way, line for spincasting is called “monofilament.” The old fashioned type that looks like string is called “braided” and doesn’t work with spinning reels.

Changing the line means pulling all the old line out of the reel, a tedious job. You’ll need about ten minutes and some space in front of you for a pile of tangled line.
You’ll have to unscrew the cover of the reel to see if you’ve reached the end of the spool. (There are electric line winders to speed this up. Also if you have access to an empty old reel, you could wind line from your new reel to the old one.)
When the line’s finally all off the reel, take the end of the line from your new spool, run it FIRST THROUGH THE FACE OF THE REEL COVER, then tie it in a simple knot twice around the core of the spool. Screw the cover back on the reel.
Pull the line lightly, then start turning the handle and reel until the spool is about full. This will probably be around 110 yards of line. You don’t want it too full or it’ll be hard to manage. However, if there’s not enough line on the reel, it won’t cast.
Congratulations! You have probably quadrupled your chances of catching fish by replacing the heavy line.

Tying Knots

The problem with knots comes as a surprise to everyone who's new to fishing.
If you tie a lure to the end of the line with a simple knot, and then pull, the line slips and the knot comes undone.
The secret is to wrap the line around several times before completing the knot. This type is called a clinch knot. There’s debate as to how many times to wrap the line – four, five or six times. Five will work fine for now. To see, do a “clinch knot” video search.
One thing you’ll want is a nail clipper to trim off the extra line after the knot is tied. You want your knot and line to be as close to invisible as possible.
[There is also the improved clinch knot, and it is an improvement. But don’t worry about it now.]
Here is a clinch knot demonstration from YouTube. Click on the screen first, then on play:

Picking a First Rod — Easy

Rods are easy for beginners. Just remember you need the kind that has the handle with what appears to be a trigger.
You’ll want a 5-1/2 foot or 6 foot rod that comes apart into two pieces. Discount stores offer these starting at about $8. Look for small print on the rod that says either light or medium action. Durango by Shakespeare is one inexpensive rod brand.
Stores offer combos, the rod and reel together, at a discount. These are usually a good way to save money and get a rod and reel that match – but you don’t save if they add in other equipment that you don’t want with the package and the price goes up. Also, only buy a combo if it has one of the better reels. Check the prices of the reels separately, and frankly, if they’re offering one of the five-dollar reels in a combo, don’t buy.
With fishing rods, you could pay any amount of money. There are plenty of hundred-dollar rods out there, and some that are hundreds of dollars. Those work better and last longer (and you can feel really cool carrying that expensive equipment.) They’re completely unnecessary for the beginner.
Also, the more expensive rods are often one-piece rods. Once you have tried to fit a six-foot rod in your car, you’ll quickly realize any loss of performance with a two-piece rod is completely acceptable.

Casting Your Line

Kids, especially, see the button on push-button reels as a very mysterious thing. What powers does that big button have?
Many people think that pushing the button would somehow launch line out of the reel.
In fact, holding the button down prevents any line from leaving the reel. It’s letting go of the button – taking the thumb OFF – that allows the line to come billowing out of the reel.
So naturally, you need to take your thumb off at just the right time – that is, when the bait is traveling through the air in the direction of the fish.
Tie a small lead weight to the end of the line and hold the rod so the weight is suspended in the air. Push and hold the button, then take your thumb off the button. The weight will fall to the floor.
Now do the same thing, but first give the weight a little swing away. If you take your thumb off the button at just the right time, the weight will fly through the air several feet away from you. You just made a cast.
Find the swing that works best for you. If there’s room, swinging the weight over your head, and letting go at just the right time, will allow the weight to travel a good ten or twenty yards.
If you have internet expertise, do a “video” search, and enter how to cast spincast to find a demonstration video.

Live Bait — or Lures?

What to put at the end of your line to catch the fish?
Choose either a bait or a lure, that is, natural food on a hook or an artificial imitation of a live creature.

Lures:
Many people object to using live bait, such as a worm or minnow. Fine! You don’t need to! Lures made of plastic catch fish, and often they work better than bait, and you don’t have to handle worms.
The general subject of lures is way too large for the beginner. After working with many first-timers, I can recommend one all-inclusive, catch-em-every time lure. It goes by names like grub or twister tail. Every tackle counter has some variation, and they all work.
Get some about one inch long. You can buy the two parts, the lure and the 1/16 ounce lead-head hook separately, or for a higher price, buy both already rigged. The color to use is the subject of endless debate. Two very frequently used and successful colors are bright green (chartreuse) and silvery nearly-clear and those are the two colors recommended here. Purple, white and yellow are also widely used. However, there is no wrong color. Even pink has been very effective. Wherever I have fished, from ocean pier to mountain stream, this lure has worked.
[One condition: the water has to be fairly clear for lure fishing, enough that you can see six inches or more. If it’s really muddy, a beginner won’t catch fish with a lure.]
Simply move the lure through the water. If you’re fishing from a boat dock, drop it down move it up and down and back and forth. Try to get it a foot or so from the bottom. If you can cast, toss it out in non-weedy water and reel it in fast enough to keep it out of snags like rocks and weeds. One turn of the reel every two seconds is a good starting speed.
Bait fishing:
For standard freshwater fishing, find out ahead of time if you or anyone in the group is going to have a hard time seeing a worm impaled on a hook. This is the all-time tried-and-true fishing bait, and for millions of people has been the key to many happy hours and fun childhood memories. If there are howls of disgust and revulsion, live bait fishing may not be for you.
With everyone on board, purchase or dig your worms. Small worms work fine. Big nightcrawlers are also very good bait, but so large they need to be cut into pieces.
You’ll want to be at a place where the current is not strong. Moving water creates all kinds of problems for beginners, so a swift river or ocean spot with moving tide is a bad choice. Ideally you’re on the bank of a nice lake. [In salt water, a fishing pier or dock is best. It’s likely that heavier line, at least eight-pound, and weights of a half-ounce or more will be needed.]
At the end of the line are the hook and the float. Your hook should be a size four. If the fish are truly tiny, less than four inches, go to a size six. Tie on the hook (see “Knots”), then place the float a couple of feet above the hook. Now grab a worm and to the best of your ability, thread it all over the hook. If you leave a lot of the worm dangling, the fish may be able to easily pull it off without getting hooked.
Toss your rig out at least eight or 10 feet from where you’re standing. Now wait for the float to start moving.
It will be a big help to know how deep the water is. If your float is in more than ten feet of water, the fish may be too far down. If you’re on a dock or in a boat, you can skip the float, and just drop the bait straight down, trying to keep it a foot or two from the bottom. [ In salt water earthworms are generally not used. Cut pieces of fish, shrimp or squid will work fine.]
Artificial bait:
Worms are the number one freshwater bait. However, they are sometimes out-performed by packaged fishing dough, which sometimes has strong odors that may not please the nose but do attract fish. One well-known brand is called Power Bait, and is a standard for many trout fishermen. Another bait that works very well for catfish, small sunfish and bluegills is a dough ball made from a roll of biscuit dough.

You can fish baits without a float and let them sink to the bottom, possibly adding a lead sinker for longer casts. Don’t use more than a quarter ounce, and usually a very tiny bb-size pinch-on lead weight will work fine where there is no current. Heavy weights interfere with the fish’s strikes. The drawback to fishing without a float is that lines often get caught on the bottom or tangled in weeds. A snag is one of the most unpleasant parts of fishing. Always try to avoid snags, and floats are a good tool for beginners to steer clear of them. But when they do happen, don’t get upset. Snags and lost rigs are part of fishing. They happen to everyone.

Where to Catch Fish

Where Can I Go to Fish?
Don’t let anyone give you too-quick answers here. There really are good fishing places nearby – that is, an hour drive or less – just about anywhere in North America.
By “good fishing places,” I mean places where you are fairly certain to catch some fish. Not certain to catch large exciting “tacklebusters,” because that’s always UN-certain. But some places are very dependable for small perch or sunfish.
Those big fees your pay for the fishing license do go for management of certain waters in state parks. Usually those lakes or streams have the fish and the facilities – that is, the lakes are scenic, the waters are managed so there are some fish all the time, and there are piers, shoreline pathways and rental boats available so you can take your new fishing rod and make a cast to waters with fish.
The best advice at these lakes is to find a spot where the water is not too shallow. Often the deepest water is right at a dam, and at the opposite end of the lake, the water is terribly shallow, only a foot or two deep even far from shore. Fishing in this shallow section might be very frustrating, with your line constantly caught on submerged rocks and sticks.
Most areas have those little-known places on rivers and streams that are not really parks, they don’t have signs to find them, but they just happen to be scenic places where there is good fishing. A ride in the countryside might unveil one unexpectedly around a corner. (Just be sure there are no signs that say “Keep Out.”)
If you’re fishing in salt water, look for a place that offers a chance to drop your line on the fish, a pier, a bridge (where it’s legal to fish) or a jetty. (Again, in salt water you want the heavier line, at least 8 pound. And always wash the salt off your equipment when you’re done or it’ll rust.)
And the obvious final advice on where to go: ask somebody who knows!